As interest in Ontario wines grows, these restaurants are taking notice: Jasmine Mangalaseril
Virtual wineries are more affordable and offer flexibility in sourcing grapes, one restaurateur says
With more people making an effort to get Canadian products on our plates, it makes sense to also think about what's in our wine glasses.
Meg Alford, owner of Guelph's Two Faces natural wine bar, said there's been an uptick in interest in Ontario-made wines since the U.S. government threatened and implemented tariffs against Canada.
"It's like night and day," she said. "But after the tariffs were put in, I would say so many people are asking [about Ontario wines]."
Ontario-made wines: Older than Canada
In 1866, Canada's first commercial winery, Vin Villa, was established on Pelee Island, with a 12-hectare vineyard of North American Catawba grapes.
Today, Ontario grows more than 7,000 hectares of grapes.
The Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) recognizes some traditional European grape varietals (Vitis vinifera), and some European-North American hybrids.
And while they granted appellations (or a geographic designation) to Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County, some winemakers seek out non-VQA varietals, harvested elsewhere in the province.
"I'm particularly interested in grapes that have genetics to this area. They also have built-in disease resistance and are able to flourish in our climate a lot better because their genetics are from here." said Drea Scotland of Drinks Farm, who has a young vineyard in Demorestville, Ontario.
"I also think those wines are delicious."
Virtual wineries
Until Scotland's vines can be harvested, she follows the French négociant tradition. Her grapes are sourced from areas including Georgian Bay, northern Ontario, and eastern Ontario and she works in a shared wine-making facility.
"You can do sustainable growing with vinifera in some places," said Scotland. "But, to me, the future of wine making in Ontario is leaning more in the hybrid direction. It would also open up the province to having way more wine regions."
Wes Klassen, sommelier and co-owner of Kitchener's Odd Duck Wine and Provisions, focuses solely on offerings from virtual wineries.
"There is no brick-and-mortar building. They are not available at the LCBO," said Klassen. "They [have a] tiny, tiny, tiny, tiny amount of production. It's this really cool co-operative community of growers that are making outstanding wines."
It's a more affordable wine-making model that gives wine makers flexibility in sourcing grapes and creative freedom in blending and trying different techniques.
Sourcing your next sip
Klassen said it's important to find a wine or hospitality professional who can showcase wines for their strengths, versus comparing them to wines from other regions.
"I think a lot of people want Ontario's version of a Cali Cab. They want us to be something that we're not," said Klassen. "I think we're kind of slapping ourselves in the face and doing a disservice to what we actually do here."
In Guelph, Alford finds her guests pleasantly surprised to learn what they're sipping was made a few hours away.
"I've had Drea's rosé on by the glass for a couple months now. Only recently were people asking, 'Where is this from?' And I'm like, 'Ontario. Right here.'"
A person might be able to purchase a bottle at the bar's or restaurant's bottle shop. If not, many producers do direct-to-consumer sales or list bottle shops they work with.
5 Ontario wines our experts recommend
2022 Cabernet Franc, Maenad Wine Co. VQA Four Mile Creek
"Very expressive, very textual wines that are still clean…a great option for somebody who wants something that's fuller body," said Wes Klassen.
2023 Flora, Rosewood Estates Winery and Meadery. VQA Niagara Peninsula
"It's just really beautiful and everyone at the bar loves it. It's just a blend of grapes. Every year it tastes a little bit different, but just very classic and such a great price," said Meg Alford.
2023 Giosuè, Drinks Farm. Ontario
"Varietals I've never heard about but then if I closed my eyes, I could swear this wine was a super classic Italian Rosato," said Meg Alford.
2023 Marsanne (with 13 per cent Viognier), Sempre Mio Wines. VQA Lincoln Lakeshore
"Texture wise, it is just so beautiful. There's just so much going on. It's such a great food wine," said Wes Klassen.
2024 Supersonic, Trail Estate. Niagara
"Everything's done in a low intervention style. Something that really is fun is her Supersonic, which is made from 100 per cent Concord grapes," said Wes Klassen.
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