Andrew Coppolino's top dishes of 2017 — and what you should try in 2018
In considering his top dishes, Andrew pondered balance of flavour, texture, aroma and appearance
From Hollywood films to presidential lies, the end of a year is a fitting time to bundle together favourites of one sort or another — and food is certainly fodder for a list.
I ate at many restaurants in Waterloo region and Perth and Wellington counties over the course of 2017's 365 days, and in order to identify my favourites, I considered balance of flavour, texture, aroma and appearance.
It's not easy to ask, "To include or not to include," but here is a run-down of some of my favourite dishes, in alphabetical order. How do they compare with yours?
Assorted sashimi: Ken Sushi House, Waterloo
Located in Phillip Square near the University of Waterloo, Ken Sushi House has quickly assumed the role of the premier sushi and sashimi venue in the city. With good reason.
Buttermilk Fried Chicken: Grand Trunk Saloon, Kitchener
Home to southern U.S. dishes and creative cocktails — "Coffee and Cigarettes," for instance, is delicious — so if you love fried chicken then the Trunk is for you. Hot, moist and tender boneless dark meat inside with a crispy-salty exterior, it's mighty satisfying with a cold beer.
Eggs Benedict: The Bruce Hotel, Stratford
Chef Aaron Carley works the Canadiana vein in his kitchen, from lobster rolls and a "Jiggs Dinner" interpretation to foraged day lily with knotweed to a blueberry grunt. The Eggs Benny — and truly terrific fried potatoes — are exceptional, too.
Haddock and Chips: Ernie's Roadhouse, Cambridge
The humblest of pub fare often hits the spot, especially in a polar vortex chill. Ernie's chef Simon Simonsen adds ale from Wellington County Brewery to the haddock batter, serving it with fresh-cut fries and crunchy citrus coleslaw with a mandarin orange vinaigrette.
Honey Box: Langdon Hall, Cambridge
Describing the "Honey Box" course at one of Canada's best hotels and restaurants, Langdon Hall's executive chef says it's an example of incorporating the Langdon property with stories and education. "The honey box is a playful and delicious way to educate guests about bee preservation and about the colonies we have on property connecting to our forest and culinary gardens," says Jason Bangerter. The dish is caramelized honey, a light honey mousse and bee pollen served in a little crystal jewelry box. It's charming and delicious.
Jackfruit and Miso Semifreddo: Bhima's Warung, Waterloo
I'm not usually a dessert fan, but this has to be included: A semifreddo of jackfruit and miso with a butterfly-pea flower crème Anglaise accompanies white chocolate bread pudding and Thai basil ice cream. It's why Bhima's is the unique, sui generis restaurant in the region — and beyond. Look for their Loloan Lobby Bar to open in downtown Waterloo in early 2018. It will be sleek and cool. (Also note: The Warung is closed until Jan. 18.)
Pork Slider with Fried Onions: Harmony Lunch, Waterloo
It's not a matter of nostalgia for an old favourite (now refurbished) that's been in the heart of Waterloo's city centre since 1930; it's just a darn good pork slider with caramelized flat top-fried onions.
Khao Piek Sen: MiMo Thai Kitchen, Waterloo
Found on the ground floor in a high-rise residential building near Laurier — a now popular design — MiMo is sister restaurant to Thai Coconut on Hespeler Road, Cambridge. Several favourites here, but their version of the Laotian tapioca noodle soup is delicious.
Meatball: San Francisco Panini, Kitchener
While there are lamb shanks, gnocchi and salmoriglo sauce on the menu, I liked the simple (but "jumbo") meatball: it has to be soft and tender; too many are tough spheres of meat that in no way resemble proper polpetta. A bit of a sentimental favourite: this reminded me of my Nonna's.
Meat Lovers Ramen: Crafty Ramen Noodle Shop, Guelph
Having created as close to an "authentic" ramen joint as they could, owners Jared and Miki Farrell studied the form at Yamoto Ramen School in Japan. The 500 sq.-ft. venue on Macdonnell makes its own noodles and is dedicated to great ingredients like earthy, pork-duck broth. The karaage is very good, and the gyoza are a family recipe.
Patatas Bravas: Public Kitchen & Bar, Kitchener
Having made its culinary mark in the small venue on Bridgeport Road, Public has moved to Victoria Street North at Lancaster where it continues to serve a daily-changing menu of tapas-like shareable plates: oysters and mussels, crostini, pâtés, tartares, Serrano ham and delicious fried potatoes with chili seasonings and aioli for dipping.
Pho Tai: Golden Turtle, Kitchener
Rare beef noodle soup has been called a variation of the French pot-au-feu, but I like to imagine pho as a self-standing Vietnamese dish that is a perfect meal for cold winter weather. Golden Turtle in Kitchener's "Innovation District" is light yet hearty with balanced flavours of spice, sweetness and saltiness.
Seared Albacore Tuna: The Berlin, Kitchener
The Berlin was co-founded by Jonathan Gushue, who recently left for Fogo Island Inn, N.L. This dish shows Gushue's deft touch in blending flavours marvellously, especially with the fruits and vegetables that he loves: lightly seared tuna sits alongside dried cherries and apricots rehydrated in Earl Grey tea, lemon zest, honey, cabbage and shallot dressing, and black sesame seeds.
Smoked Pork Hock: Olde Heidelberg Restaurant and Tavern, Heidelberg
In a year that saw a couple of country pubs and taverns shuttered, the smoked pork hocks at the Heidelberg – supplied by local butcher Stemmler's — still packs in locals and tourists galore. In peak season during the summer, the kitchen will serve 1,200 pork hocks a week. It's just a terrific porky-meaty example of "Waterloo County Fare."
Sujuk Pide: Rana Taste of Turkish, Waterloo
A new addition to Waterloo by the folks from Rana Kitchener. There are several new dishes on the new menu including a flatbread-like pide: a traditional Turkish style "pizza" that includes vegetables, cheese and meats such as sujuk sausage.
Surprisingly Large Fried Chicken: Hot-Star, Waterloo
Inspired by Taipei's Shilin night market (with 500-plus food-stalls) Hot-Star is street food in the form of a piece of pounded and spiced fried chicken that's the size of your face — and which you eat out of a bag. There's a cheesy version too making it a supreme drunk food, I'm sure.
Veal Parm Sandwich: Nostra Cucina, Kitchener
The "hot loaded Love" is a hefty sandwich that is a Waterloo Region classic: Veal parm with Provolone, hot peppers, luscious tomato gravy and tender veal lightly swaddled in a crisp breading.
Please note: menus and chefs change frequently, so not all dishes may be available.