Food & Wine Magazine names Surrey as one of the world's best emerging food cities
'Vindicated,' says Surrey foodie about international recognition of its culinary scene
Surrey, B.C. foodies say they've long been singing the praises of the city's culinary scene and are glad to finally see it gain international recognition.
Food & Wine Magazine, an American publication targeting gourmands, has named Surrey as one of seven "next great food cities" in its May 2023 issue.
B.C.'s fastest-growing city, located just east of Vancouver, was given the title alongside other big cities, including Venice, Marseille and Kanazawa in Japan. Surrey was the only Canadian city to make the list.
Surrey food blogger Raj Thandhi says she almost cried when she heard the news.
"I love this city," she says. "I was so vindicated ... I've been saying this for years that Surrey has the best food scene."
She says the city's culinary landscape has grown up over the last few decades, particularly within the last five to seven years.
"There was a time when people didn't know exactly all the spices and techniques, but the bar is really high now," she says.
There used to be an emphasis on Punjabi or northern Indian cuisine, where most of Surrey's South Asian population hails from, she says, but that's changed.
She now sees restaurant menus from every corner of India and even neighbouring countries like Nepal, Pakistan and Afghanistan.
One of her favourite restaurants in Newton is Dragon Wok — an Indo-Chinese restaurant whose owners used to live in Kolkata.
That influx of immigrants from all over Asia looking to spread their roots beyond Vancouver is something celebrity chef Vikram Vij says he predicted in 2014.
It's part of why he chose South Surrey to open his second restaurant, My Shanti.
"I'm truly humbled by it because, I mean, at that time, it was a little bit of a risk," he said.
He says his menu reflects the expanding palate in the city, drawing from his travels in India — from Rajasthan to Bangalore.
WATCH | Surrey restaurateurs say international recognition long overdue:
Black community brings unique flavours
The growing Black population in Surrey is also adding to the vibrancy of the city's food scene.
Chef Tobias Brown says he's managed to carve out a national reputation for himself based on Google reviews for the best Jamaican jerk chicken when it's typically associated with Toronto's vast Caribbean community.
Grilling in a cloud of smoke at the back of an industrial parking lot near the Cloverdale border, Brown says if it weren't for his community, he would've gone unnoticed.
"When I signed the contract that day, there was a tumbleweed that went by, and I was like, 'Oh boy.'"
Brown says the president of the Black Business Association of B.C. and her family were his very first customers. She helped spread the word online.
Shared cultural experiences are what makes Surrey unique, he says.
"I'm proud of my friends from other countries. I'm proud to get to know them and to taste their food just like they taste our food."