Wigs and weaves the right way: Caring for your extra lengths without damaging your natural hair

Spring hair makeover season is upon us. Some of you might be considering a new, or your first, weave or wig. People wear wigs and weaves for many reasons including wanting to cover hair loss, wanting a flexible look, wanting to express creativity and also as a way to protect natural hair underneath. The latter is also known — albeit somewhat controversially — as a protective style; the thing is, not everyone knows how to properly maintain wigs and weaves while protecting natural hair.

Zelica Alexander, owner of Miss Inchez, a hair extension studio, has worked professionally for almost 20 years and has become one of Toronto's foremost weave and wig experts. Specializing in eight (yes, eight!) methods of hair extension techniques and wig-making including braidless weaves and micro links, she's fixed the crowns of big names like actress Nia Long, singer Mya, soca artist Patrice Roberts and  countless YouTubers and influencers like @TorontoShay, @darlingtee ,@jaystrut and @msroshposh. Here, she shares her pro tips with us on how to keep weaves and wigs looking great and how to keep our natural hair protected and healthy throughout the process.

First: Know that this is a commitment — and an investment

The first thing to understand is that you should not make your decision to get a weave or wig lightly. "Outside of visits to your stylist, [weaves and wigs] still require upkeep and maintenance," says Alexander. "Also make sure you invest in quality hair." And by quality hair she's referring to unprocessed virgin hair that can cost up to $200 a bundle or $600 and up for a full wig. This varies depending on the type, length, thickness and any customization.

To begin

Regardless of whether your hair is natural or chemically processed, according to Alexander, it's necessary to start your install (whether it be weave or wigs) on clean, nourished strands. "A good wash and a deep treatment is a must," she says, adding, "If you are doing a braid down, be sure to use a light moisturizing hair oil on your scalp afterwards."

How your new hair is secured to your own hair or head can make or (literally) break your whole experience. Though there are several styles of weaves and wigs, most processes start with braiding natural hair. For Alexander, she always 'leaves out' just enough hair along the hairline. She adds, "I don't braid in baby hair and I'm always aware of braiding tension. I make it a point to ask my clients if the braid is comfortable." If the braid is too tight it can lead to hairline breakage, not to mention sleepless nights due to uncomfortable cornrows. When it comes to 'laying down' the hairline with a lace front wig,  Alexander reminds us "lace is a very delicate material and should be handled gently."

What is the best way to wash, dry and style weaves and wigs?

You'll want to keep both your own hair and your bought hair looking fresh and fab, and a large part of that will be owed to washing, drying and styling them properly. When washing a sew-in (where the weave is sewn on to your braided hair), Alexander advises showering as follows. "Stand under the shower head and keep extensions [falling] in a natural [way]; apply a sulphate-free shampoo, gently massaging [with] a squeezing motion using your fingers or a detangling brush, then repeat. Follow up with a quality conditioner."

However, Alexander actually advises her clients to wear wigs as a protective style, and not sewn down, allowing you to wash both your own hair and the wig at least weekly. When washing your wig separately, wash in the sink using the same method mentioned above, and again, be careful with the lace. Once the wig is off, Alexander says that natural hair should be washed with a clarifying shampoo and deep conditioner before braiding it down once again. As mentioned, rub a little light moisturizing oil between braids before securing your wig.

You can always just take your wig to your wig maker to have it washed if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.

If you've ever worn a weave you know how awful it feels (and potentially smells) to have seemingly dry weave with wet braids lurking underneath! Miss Inchez has a fix for that. "I always say to anyone who has joined the wig or weave world, please invest in a hooded dryer. It's a must to make sure that your cornrows are properly dried."

When it comes to styling, especially if your natural hair is partially exposed, Alexander says to always style clean hair. "You should treat your weaves and wigs like you would treat your own hair." Meaning use the same caution you do with your own hair: don't add too much direct heat and manipulation. Her other tips include: "During the week, maintain the style by wrapping your hair or using flexible rods for curls. Only use a light serum for styling, stay away from alcohol based products as they could damage the weave."

What is the best way to protect weaves and wigs while sleeping?

It might be tempting to just plop into bed at the end of a long day, but maintaining your extra lengths extends to your bedtime routine. "Remove your wig and place it on a mannequin head so it can keep its shape while you're sleeping. If you have clip ins, remove those as well. Then wrap your cornrows in a silk tie or sleep on a silk pillowcase," says Alexander. And what about for sewn-in weaves? "Wrap the weave with a few pins and then put on a head tie to hold the wrap in place."  

What should people keep in mind when removing wigs and weaves?

According to Alexander "your sew-in, fusion, microlink extensions shouldn't stay in for longer than 4-6 weeks." True also for the removable wigs Alexander prefers. If you're thinking about removing your sew in weave or wig on your own, know that most hair stylists including Alexander would advise against this unless you know exactly what you're doing. "Always have help or book with your stylist [if] you don't want to end up snipping your actual hair."

What about once a weave or wig is removed?

So your weave or wig of choice is finally out — there are some initial steps you should take. Alexander lays them out for us. "Use a detangling brush to remove natural hair shed, followed by shampoo and deep conditioning. Then section hair into four, blow dry or braid it and sit under a hair dryer." Ahhh, time for your natural hair to breathe a bit. As a matter of fact, Miss Inchez wants you to rest your natural hair at least 3 weeks between weaves and wigs.

"Hair extensions and wigs are fun! But please remember to still care for your natural hair."

Nneka Elliott (@nnekaelliott) is a lifestyle blogger, host and actor. She shares her adventures with fashion and beauty in her pursuit of a gutsy life. nnekaelliott.com